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Christopher Hora, executive chef and owner of Root, is one of the most well-traveled people I have ever met. From Prague to Hong Kong, Thailand to Scotland, the man has lived and cooked everywhere. When asked why he decided to open a restaurant in Philly as an alternative to hopping around Europe and Asia, he replied simply, “I got tired of living out of a suitcase.” And thank goodness for that.
Located directly across from the monstrosity of neon lights that is the Spaghetti Warehouse, Root looks out of place at its home on 10th and Spring Garden. Upon arrival, the curious customer is greeted by natural wood tables, concrete floors and high-gloss white walls completely devoid of adornment. The only artificial light comes from the kitchen; tea lights give the room a calm yet surreal glow. (I learned later from Hora that the wiring of the place was a mess when he arrived, and that he liked candles better anyway.) Root is an ideal Friday night destination for a couple eager to get to know one another. The music isn’t too loud, the lighting is flattering and the minimalist style of the place as a whole is conducive to long conversations and a focused concentration on the restaurant’s most important element: the food.
Serendipitously our meal began with a lobster dish described on the menu as “Lobster Two-Ways;” someone else’s indecision was our fortune. The $27 lobster tail was swimming in a sweet Thai tom-ko sauce, a flavor none of us had experienced before. Japanese eggplant and bok choy complemented the lobster without providing too harsh of a contrast. The e fu noodles, though beautifully homemade, were a little heavy and doughy for my taste, and would have been better if replaced with a lighter pasta alternative. That aside, the coconut sweetness of the sauce is what really made the dish.
Choosing from the list of “small plates” on the menu proved to be quite difficult. Every single one of them appeared uniquely appetizing, and the prices were very reasonable (ranging from $6-$13). Saving the tartare flight with Czech topinky sauce for next time, we decided on the baby octopus as well as the Peking duck spring roll. Knowing very little about octopus, I was originally disconcerted by the rubbery texture of the tiny creature bathed in a spicy olive oil and mustard dressing. After several more bites, I began to appreciate the execution of the dish as a whole; the roasted peppers added tremendous flavor, and not once did a fishy or salty taste disrupt my palate. The Peking duck spring roll did not disappoint either. Exquisitely flavorful with a chewy yet crispy texture, the roll was served piping hot with a generous amount of spicy hoisin sauce. Needless to say, the two rolls ($6) did not last long on the plate.
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