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This Issue 11/11/2009

• Pho Sho
• Fair Game
• Ali Baba
• Hot, Cheap and Sticky Sweet
• Not Very Novi

Walking into Novi, what strikes you first are the hushed tones and the mood lighting. The walls are stylish blends of black and gold, and the decorating and accents are reminiscent of a chic uptown sushi bar. This is definitely not your family-owned Italian bistro.

The appetizer options are nothing if not diverse, but almost half the choices are not typical Italian specialties. Chicken fingers, crab cakes, quesadillas, French fries — it’s hard to discern whether the chef is extraordinarily talented or just trying to play to a wide audience. If you opt for classic Italian fare, the calamari is decent, though perhaps too deeply fried, and the caprese is typical.

Novi’s strength lies in entrees, as the portion size is generous and the food is traditionally prepared, all at a reasonable price. For those who like to play it safe, this is the perfect restaurant: none of the dishes will surprise you.

The pasta options are the most satisfying, as the sauces are savory without being overbearing. Spicy Italian sausage adds the perfect amount of flavor to the homemade gnocchi ($13), and the tomato sauce doesn’t overpower the shrimp arrabiata (a very reasonable $17, considering it includes jumbo shrimp).

The pizza choices are enticing, and the wood grill gives the crust an extra fragrant flavor. If you want to branch out from the typical margherita, the vegetarian pizza is a wonderful, Mediterranean-themed option, and the diavola is perfect for those who like it hot. The pescatore pizza, which is topped with both fresh shrimp and clams, is more than one can stomach, and the wiser (if less daring) eaters put it down after the first taste. Plus the $22 price will make many reconsider, since the $15-16 pizzas are both more affordable and more delicious.

The menu also offers a considerable variety of chicken options, of which the chicken parmigiano ($15) is the most scrumptious — if only because of its simplicity. The herb crusted chicken ($14), by contrast, is lackluster, and the side of mashed potatoes makes it all the more ordinary. For those who decide to bring children (or younger siblings), they can rely on the trusty chicken tenders with fries.

Most upsetting of all was the lack of a good dessert menu, but after an hour of eating bread, pasta and pizza, perhaps that was for the best.

The waiters are courteous but not helpful in the way of recommendations, and the service is slow, especially in refilling drinks. Also, the fact that it is not a BYO will surely limit Novi’s popularity among the Penn crowd.

Novi’s quiet, formal setting would make it awkward for a large group gathering — it’s far better for a dinner date than a meal with your hall or housemates. If swanky is your style, the restaurant’s atmosphere and clientele will create the perfect mood for your dining experience, but the food itself does not make the trip to Hamilton Street worthwhile.

Novi
2001 Hamilton St.