Buried beneath an underpass on the edge of Chinatown, Dim Sum Garden initially looks like a restaurant that promises food poisoning. The neon, multicolored lights that line the windows don’t exactly scream class, but the great food outweighs the lack of ambiance.
When we sat down, we were greeted by a friendly waitress and a large porcelain pot of black tea. Dim Sum brunch is an Americanized Chinese meal consisting of small portions of dumplings and other appetizers. The idea is for each person to taste many different dishes. Think tapas a la Hong Kong on a Saturday morning.
The server eagerly helped us in navigating the variety of dim sum options. She suggested her personal favorites: Shanghai siumai ($3.50 for four pieces) and steamed pork juicy buns ($5.25 for eight pieces).We were accompanied by some picky eaters, so we also went for a typical Chinese staple: scallion pancakes. The scallion pancakes were perfectly prepared: doughy on the inside and crispy on the outside. After eating them, our hands were covered in oil, but what more can you expect from a deep–fried appetizer for $2.50?
The siumai were dumplings filled with sticky rice, mushrooms, and ground pork. The ingredients blended together to make a dense but soft mash of complimentory flavors. They were particularly delicious when the waitress advised us to add chili paste to the dumpling sauce, giving the appetizer a poignant kick.
The real production began when the juicy buns were served. At first, we were unsure of how to eat these soup dumplings. They were shaped like miniature draw string purses and felt like limp water balloons. To be brutally honest, the juicy buns looked like eight small breasts arranged on a plate.
It got weirder as the waitress guided us through the steps of eating the juicy buns: 1) pinch the bun at the top where the dough is gathered and sealed 2) place it on your soup spoon 3) lean over your plate and begin sucking the broth out of hole until you’ve kicked the keg 4) enjoy the firmly–packed patty of ground pork found in the now-deflated dumpling. We apologize for likening this process to breast feeding, but it is a slightly uncomfortable means to a delightful end.
We strayed from the strictly dumpling–heavy dim sum menu and tried the chilli cabbage shredded pork noodle ($5.95). While the name of the dish might scare off the less adventurous diners, the noodles were mild but had some tangy qualities to keep things interesting. We ordered a side of cold cucumber salad, which helped to break up the series of hot offerings. However, the cucumbers were bathed in too much vinegar, which detracted from the freshness of the veggies.
Despite its despondent exterior, Dim Sum Garden proved to be a most delicious hole-in-the-wall eatery.
Dim Sum Garden
59 N 11th St.
(215) 627-0218
Don’t Miss: Shangai siumai
Skip: Vegetable dumplings
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