Founded in 1987 in the swinging district between South Street and Society Hill by the petite Madame Saito, Le Champignon de Tokio serves reasonably priced Japanese, Thai and French food in an authentic setting. This spacious, mirror bedecked establishment is a perfect spot for group dining.
While waiting for your party to gather, enjoy warm French rolls and a fine selection of beers including Sapporo and Kirin. For the more ambitious (a.k.a. dirty alcoholic) members of your party, try some hot sake, pound the table and have a few rounds of saki bombs. Even if you're not brave enough to partake, you'll enjoy watching your friends and the overfriendly staff suck it all down.
Champignon serves three distinct cuisines, resisting the modern urge to hybridize the dining experience. This unique format accommodates the sushi lover, the Thai connoisseur and the Francophile alike, but it did prompt one diner to ponder over her escargot: "Can I make this Japanese-French fusion if I eat it with chopsticks?"
For appetizers, try the chicken satay skewers with peanut sauce and cucumbers, or a rich bowl of thick French onion soup with gooey gruyere. The simple combination sushi is also delicious, served with samples of tuna, salmon, eel and a cucumber roll. However, wimps beware! The rice that complements the fresh fish and vegetables is loaded with hidden wasabi between layers.
Madame Saito's studies at the famous French culinary arts school, Le Cordon Bleu, were clearly reflected in her Canard Roti, which consists of crispy roast duckling, served over red cabbage sauce. Other delectable creations include broiled rainbow trout with stuffed crabmeat and mushrooms ($19), or the menu's most expensive non-sushi item, the Carre D'Agneau Arliesienne ($34) (rack of lamb). Make sure to emphasize how you want your food prepared, or it will leave the kitchen on the overcooked side. For those planning to dine on sushi all night, the Madame's commitment to only the finest seafood will ensure an experience with few regrets.
Finish up your meal with coffee and a cocktail glass of green tea ice cream. Then head upstairs with Madame Saito to the Tokio ballroom for a swing dance session. Tell Madame she's hot and she'll comp your $5 entrance fee. One added bonus is that if you need to stay the night, Champignon doubles as a bed and breakfast, and the Madame will surely make you feel at home.


