"We are a Philadelphia institution," boasts Bill Di Bruno, manager of the newest branch of the Di Bruno empire. And he's right. The original Di Bruno's Deli, still open and managed by Bill's cousin Emilio Mignucci, was founded 66 years ago in the Italian Market by the cousins' grandfather. The success of the original venue led to the inevitable Center City expansion. Opened in May 2005, the spacious new location combines a traditional Italian deli downstairs with a coffee bar rich with Italian espressos and an upstairs cafe that offers breakfast and lunch.

If you're headed to the cafe, plan on a leisurely lunch, and "Don't forget wine," warns Bill. Their BYO policy complements the cafe's selection of cheese trays. If the "wine and cheese" thing is too pretentious for your tastes, try a Di Bruno salad, freshly prepared and accompanied by their signature bread. The cafe also regularly hosts cooking clinics for a range of culinary skills.

The real draw is the extensive market on the ground level. Pre-made pasta and sauces, Italian coffee, an unnecessary number of French waters -- it's all here. The "cheese cave" in the back features over 500 varieties of cheese, which Mr. Di Bruno bills as the largest selection in Philly. Overwhelmed by my cheese choices, I played it safe with the popular Abbrazze cheese spread ($4.99), a peppery garlic spread that can be easily melted into a pasta sauce. Grab a homemade onion baguette ($2.99) at the bakery, and you're ready to dip.

Meat-lovers clean up at Di-Bruno's. Homemade meats are accompanied by a wide selection of international imports, notably the Jamon Serrano, a renowned Spanish ham. Bill recommended the hot round soppresatta ($12.99/lb), a tangy home-made salami. While the prosciutto di Parma ($24.99/lb) and Spanish chorizo ($19.99/lb) make for an expensive sandwich, they are both delicious.

The keyword for this experience: sample. Di Bruno's encourages you to take your time and try before you buy. They take pride in what they offer, and they should because they offer top quality (at a price).

As for desserts, Termini Brothers (another Philadelphia establishment) provides all the pastries. As full as you are from sampling, it's hard to turn down a fresh cannoli ($2.99). Gelato is available in a few flavors, including an extremely rich chocolate and a mocha-chocolate ($4.25). While refreshing, it's nothing spectacular as far as gelato goes.

If you're lucky enough to find a vacant outdoor table, grab it; it's calming to eat leisurely while Chestnut Street bustles before you. Or turn your purchases into an impromptu picnic at nearby Rittenhouse Square. Either way, you'll need a little relaxation, because Di Bruno's is not about quickly grabbing dinner. For the indecisive, it's an hour-long experience, both filling and fun.