Sometimes simple is exactly what you need, and Audrey Claire (20th and Spruce St.) delivers just that. This Mediterranean BYOB is stripped of all superfluous decoration; white walls, an open kitchen and scantily clad wooden tabletops dominate the scene. While this effect runs the risk of looking stark, the gregarious crowd and bustling staff compensate for the lack of décor. Even place settings are given the simplicity treatment. Wine is sipped from juice glasses and dishes are served on plain white plates reminiscent of a local diner. Although the restaurant’s dedication to a simple design does little to stimulate the eye, it serves well to highlight the food and accentuate the sophisticated intimacy of this neighborhood haunt.
The “bare essentials” attitude of the design translates to the menu. Dishes are split into two categories: “smaller dishes” (appetizers) and “bigger dishes” (entrees). I recommend starting with the pear and gorgonzola flatbread ($8). It’s mild yet surprisingly satisfying. Mediterranean spreads ($9), including hummus, tzatziki and sundried tomato, are also enjoyable complements to any dish.
Bigger dishes rely on classic, fresh flavors. Roasted half-chicken ($20), pork chops ($21), and rack of lamb ($24) are some highlights of the ever-changing changing menu. The locally- bought ingredients are always fresh and seasonal, and this commitment comes through in the dishes. Upon recommendation from the waitress, I ordered the pappardelle (wide noodle pasta) with Portobello mushrooms, sautéed arugula, toasted sunflower seeds and shaved locatelli, a peppery Italian cheese ($16). Although bland on its own, the pappardelle tossed with olive oil paired nicely with the stronger taste of the locatelli. While it may not satisfy the more adventurous palate, this dish offers a refreshing change to the heavy, oversauced pastas other BYO’s might offer.
Be sure to satisfy that sweet-tooth also, because the dessert selection is stellar at Audrey Claire. The citrus rice pudding is phenomenal; a classic dish gets a makeover, with an added subtle, citrus twist. Offering an enjoyable blend of sweet and tart, it solidified the delightful simplicity that the meal had to offer.
Audrey Claire 276 S. 20th St. (215) 731-1222 Don’t Miss: Pappardelle with Portobello mushrooms Skip: The credit card — it's cash only Bottom Line: No-frills Mediterranean fare appropriate for both family and friends
