New Year’s Eve 2009 was a bittersweet night for many Philadelphia foodies; with the close of the year, Brasserie Perrier closed its doors for good. But the same spirit of elegance and quality lives on in another Chris Scarduzio enterprise: Table 31, so named in honor of the most desirable table at Brasserie Perrier.
Located in the ground floor of the Comcast building, the clean and modern yet comfortable space manages to be at once spacious and intimate. The floor plan branches into more self-contained areas, so the atmosphere maintains a quietness especially attractive to smaller parties.
It’s impossible not to feel sophisticated when contemplating the drink menu, which, in addition to the usual suspects, includes all manner of top-shelf liquors and selections of specialty cocktails and craft bottled beers. Especially enjoyable was the Ithaca apricot wheat beer; the hint of apricot lends a barely-there sweetness that isn’t as intrusive as the citrus notes of many wheat beers.
The appetizer options are extensive, and they don’t fail to please. We especially liked the way the texture and saltiness of the crispy potatoes juxtaposed with the fish in the tuna tartar ($14), which is also served with oven dried tomatoes and jalapeno pesto. The hearts of romaine ($10, + $2 with fresh anchovies) may appear simple, but one dining companion declared that the outstanding freshness of the lettuce and the perfect consistency and amount of the creamy parmesan dressing made this dish the highlight of his meal.
The entrées are heavy on pasta and meat dishes, with a separate section for the steakhouse-inclined (the truly starving can satiate their appetites for the next five days with the 24 oz. porterhouse ($57)). Among our orders, the potato-encrusted halibut special stood out; one dining companion commented on the sophistication of the dish’s flavors and the pleasing contrast of the crisp potato crust. Another member of our party ordered the bronzino ($27), and though he appreciated the quality of the fish, he was so impressed with its savory lobster fagioli accompaniment that he proclaimed the latter could stand alone. Conversely, the braised beef short ribs ($31) needed a little less accent; they were amazingly tender and nicely paired with cipollini onions, but the chianti glaze had a strange perfumed quality that confused the tongue.
Dessert is not to be missed. Though the selection of gelati and sorbetti ($8) may not look like the most exciting option, the authenticity and variety of the flavors truly amuse the bouche. Everyone agreed that the warm and delicious cones were a nice counterpoint to the gelati. The fragole & zabaglione (strawberries and cream, $9) is similarly wonderful, sweet without being overpowering, though we recommend taking the basil off the top.
Be ready to spend at Table 31, but not before enjoying some seriously sophisticated food.
Table 31 1701 JFK Blvd. (215) 567-7111 Don’t Miss: The hearts of romaine, the bronzino Skip: The short ribs Bottom Line: The atmosphere and sophisticated take on standard dishes make for a great date spot, if you're ready to spend.
