Twenty Manning long posited itself as the Philadelphia bastion of casual, all–American dining. The strength of its menu lay in its ability to provide hearty classics with the vital facelift needed to supersede previous expectations. It was therefore with some trepidation that I approached the revamped menu of the now–renamed Twenty Manning Grill — a result of a brief but distinct update the restaurant underwent back in April — worried that the classics would be lost in the fusion–friendly tizzy.
The menu was rife with appetizers. My companion and I ordered the Pork Pot Stickers ($9), Farmers Market Beets ($11) and Smoked Trout ($11) to kick–start the meal. The beets were excellent, and a perfect example of Twenty Manning’s ability to add clout to what could otherwise be considered a somewhat banal new American staple. Three large organic baby red and yellow beets were served on a bed of delicate but rich goat cheese and lavender honey. The dish was topped with an aged balsamic drizzle of fantastically rich consistency and tanginess.
The other two appetizers failed to live up to the high standards the beet salad set, but were nonetheless good. The plate of smoked trout is undoubtedly, a great concept. The trout itself was smoked to perfection. However, it was the general presentation of the dish, which made it difficult to discern its bold flavor. Served on a plate inundated with capers, horseradish cream, chopped onions and crunchy croutons, the trout was drowned out by its accompaniments. There was clearly a lot of thought that went into its presentation, but there was a distinct lack of punch to the accoutrements. Only the mache greens, swathed in a delightful lemon–vinaigrette did anything to bring out the flavor of the trout.
Similarly, the pot stickers’ presentation was somewhat of an irritation. The pot stickers were fine. But the very fact that they were served along with chopsticks and an over–abundance of soy detracted from the contemporary American feel of the meal. The sheer inclusion of the dish highlighted the somewhat confused sense of culinary identity that has encroached on Twenty Manning’s previous strong sense of new American self.
If the appetizers gave the meal a shaky start, the entrees most excellently remedied that fact. I opted for the duck confit ($16) whilst my companion went with the Ahi Tuna ($19). Served with a pumpkin mash, the duck was succulent, although, it could have benefited from excluding the garlic spinach side, which added very little. The Ahi Tuna was similarly delicious. The tuna itself, served medium rare, was fantastic and fresh, if only slightly overcooked. But it was really the sticky cucumber, dill and pineapple rice, which cemented the interesting flavors of the dish, for the acidity in the fruit complemented the distinct flavor of the tuna. But, in truth, the star of the meal was the side order of brussel sprouts ($6). Served seared, and topped with thin filaments of cheese, these were the outstanding complement to the robust main meals.
Despite the mild identity confusion Twenty Manning Grill displayed in its dinner menu, the desserts were unphazed by this entirely. The choice of diner classics such as berry cobbler, a Toll House chocolate chip cookie, an ice cream sundae and chocolate cake finally reflected the casual American feel Twenty Manning Grill extolls the virtues of. We delighted in the half-baked chocolate chip cookie ($6), served a la mode; and the berry cobbler ($6). Although the cobbler was slightly more elaborate, both desserts were unpretentious and solid.
The clean seaside feel of Twenty Manning Grill’s aesthetic embodies its all–American ideal, even though the food might not in its entirety. Perfect for a casual meal — particularly in light of the downsizing of its price range — or to savor its enchanting Bellinis keep Twenty Manning Grill on your list of top Philadelphia restaurants.
Twenty Manning Grill
261 S. 20th St.
(215) 731–0900
Dont Miss: Seared Brussel sprouts
Skip This: Pork pot stickers
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