City folk get country at a new gastropub 

Sarah Tse
Don’t be fooled by the folk–art cowboy murals and informal high–stool bar and table seating. Boot and Saddle caters not only to your inner beer–drinking, backcountry urges, but also to your more refined tastes.

As Philly’s one and only country bar, the revamped Boot and Saddle modernizes its rugged history with a focus on live music and an “anti–gastro pub” menu crafted by Barbuzzo’s previous chef, Christopher David. The 10–item menu is surprisingly satisfying in the variety of preparations and locally–sourced ingredients.

We decided to start with the cauliflower croquettes ($7). The crispy skin of the croquette accentuated the fluffiness of the whipped cauliflower. These textures paired with a garnish of pickled apples and almond–date relish made for the perfect balance of sweet and tangy.

Reluctantly, we switched our attention to the spicy sautéed greens, ($6) which appeared to be a warm spinach salad drowning in liquid. The strength of the ginger flavor and the explosion of spices overwhelmed the potential of the pickled cranberries and textured grains. We could have definitely gone without this dish.

We were also disappointed with the grilled cheese sandwich ($10). The bread was oil–soaked and way too thick, especially for the measly filling. On opening the sandwich, it became obvious that the cheese, shitake bacon and cured tomatoes were fresh and well–seasoned but together resembled dripping slices of oiled toast.

The marinated butter squash ($8) put us back on track. The arugula, pickled apple and fennel salad paired well with the squash—an unexpected but welcome combination. We loved the contrast in flavor, texture and temperature between the warm, dessert–like squash and the crisp, acidic salad.

Some dishes need restructuring, but we have faith that these are just growing pains. Overall, Boot and Saddle is a great venue for good food, beer and music—a satisfying sensory experience with only an exception or two.

Boot and Saddle

1131 S. Broad St.

@BootsAndSaddle

(267) 639–4528

Don't Miss: Spicy sauteed greens

Skip: The grilled cheese sandwhich

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