We arrive at 7:30 and are seated at a small, hand-painted table. The warm yellow light is instantly comforting. Knickknacks line the walls, shelves and hearth. Candles burn gently. One can look straight back into the kitchen, where chefs in white sweat over an open griddle and the friendly owner, Susanna, bustles about with the waitresses. People around us are uncorking their self-selected wines, from the group of students behind us to the elderly couple on our left. The space is small but not close; homey. Our waitress brings us our diet cokes and with a friendly smile lists the complex and yummy-sounding specials.
As platitos we try arrepitas--coin-shaped, cornbread from Venezuela; sweet, cinnamon-y pork atop fried platano; salmon, Chilean sea bass and sea scallop ceviche; yucca fries; fried sweet banana; and off the specials menu, platotes of whole red snapper and the "three little lambs." The seafood is fresh, and the selection (except for a few staples like tuna) changes depending on the season. Also on the menu are pork, chicken and beef options, with very few vegetarian alternatives besides sides and salads. Our dishes are beautifully prepared with "haute" details like colorful garnishings in delicate arrangements. Thankfully, there is as much substance as attractiveness to our dishes.
We are only thoroughly charmed, however, after checking the bathroom d‚cor. It is how one wishes one's bathroom at home to look, complete with a cinnamon candle, photos, flowers and the Architectural Digest. By 9:15 we are finishing our desert of peach cobbler and black pepper gelati (it looks like vanilla bean, but just you wait) and the place is filled with a crowd as colorful and eclectic as Azafran's menu. Latin tunes dance across the ceiling, but do not disturb the diners who are entirely enthusiastic about being here. As are we. Azafran is located at 617 S. 3rd Street. Call 215.928.4019 for reservations and information. Azafran is BYOB; I suggest a Chilean red.
