There's something counterintuitive about jazz before noon -- something about morning that sounds cautious and calculated, rather than spontaneous and discordant. While in the evening, jazz gets progressively more exciting with every drink, in the morning it feels like it's steeped in last night's hangover.
Yet every Sunday, jazz is served with brunch at Zanzibar Blue, which is located in the basement of the Bellevue Hotel in Center City. At brunch, the lights are brighter, the waiters peppier and nobody smokes. The crowd is diverse and laid-back, including families with children and elderly couples. Everyone joined in to sing "Happy Birthday" to five celebrants among us.
Vivacious lead vocalist Brenda Smith, whose voice was more exciting than any of the instrumentalists in the trio behind her, woke up the morning crowd by singing cheerful love songs. The band, Fortune Vinson Cruse, played well, but without much energy or interest. The music sounded as if it had been drenched in maple syrup.
Like other jazz and blues clubs in the city, the menu, a hefty $22.95 prix fixe, has a Southern accent, emphasizing spicy meat and fish. However, it also includes breakfast staples like bacon and eggs. The food is decent, but it isn't meant to be the main attraction. Our entr‚es -- banana-pecan french toast and jambalaya -- were better than expected for jazz club fare.
The concept of a Sunday jazz brunch is nice, but it doesn't quite work. Jazz is by nature nocturnal, but the atmosphere of Zanzibar Blue in the morning recalls a hotel lobby, with overpriced food and drowsy music. Nevertheless, the club manages to fill most of its tables for brunch. And, since jazz radio WJJZ broadcasts live from the restaurant, there's always a chance you'll be featured on the radio before any of your friends get out of bed.
If you want the sort of smooth and smoky experience that you'll find at clubs like the Blue Note, save your visit to Zanzibar Blue until after dark.
