Chef Mustapha Rouissiya, of Figs fame, must have realized last year that the tried and true Old City hotspots have a tendency to get tired and ridiculously crowded -- eight months ago he opened his Mediterranean bistro, Adriatica, and Philadelphians will celebrate in his ingenuity.

The workweek lunchtime menu offers exotic salads and sandwiches, along with more substantial fare. Having heard good things about the seafood, my companion and I both opted for the char-grilled Atlantic salmon with date barbecue sauce. Although the fish was just short of perfect -- a little overcooked, yet oddly room temperature -- the date barbecue sauce, which came to the table still slightly steaming, had just the right amount of tangy bite to offset the sweetness of the fruit. A dollop of garlic mashed potatoes, along with a trio of asparagus bolstered the fish up off the plate in a delicate display of edible art. The potatoes didn't have the typical velvety texture expected at an upscale bistro, but had a daring chunkiness that I am not sure I appreciated.

I am a big fan of open kitchens -- watching the white uniforms scurry from here to there, and smelling the intoxicating aromas make me antsy with anticipation for the meal. The fact that the kitchen is not closed off also gives the illusion that the space expands.

The caramel-colored wood creates a sleek and surprisingly soothing effect in the soft light of both the bar area and the tables. White lanterns hang gracefully from the ceiling over the bar and sporadically over dining patrons, and the muted flow lessened the effect of the purples and yellows of the dining areas. The ambiance is unobtrusive. Because the tables are not spaced in such a way that maximizes the space, diners can revel in the luxury of private conversations and elbowroom.

For some reason, Adriatica is not yet on the mainstream radar, but I have a feeling it won't take long for those who love food to find this gem and make it the new "it" spot to see and be seen. Take the opportunity, in the near future, to enjoy a delightful meal of delicate food with eye-opening flavors before everyone else gets wind of it.