If you're looking for a Rittenhouse girl in a South Philly world, Bistro La Viola is your spot. With a dining room that makes a shoebox appear expansive, the experience at this cash-only BYO is reminiscent of eating at the communal tables at Manhattan's Carnegie Deli. Logistically, the tiny bistro is about as capable as an Italian military unit, as we waited nearly 25 minutes (with a reservation) to be seated. Service was uninspired at best, and it took nearly 15 minutes just to get a slice of bread -- although when it arrived, it was freshly baked and perfectly crunchy.
For starters, we had grilled calamari with a lemon butter sauce ($7). The calamari was overcooked as the charcoal taste overpowered whatever authentic flavor the dish contained. The fungi terrain ($8) consisted of portobello, porcini and wild mushrooms in a brown sauce -- a great option for vegetarians.
The highlight of the meal was the lobster ravioli ($12). While this has become a standard dish at Philadelphia BYOs, La Viola has it down to a science. Chunks of fresh shellfish stuff the al dente ravioli, which are covered in a light, creamy pink sauce. Less can be said for the spinach gnocchi ($9). The tomato basil sauce lacked punch and as a result, the far too fluffy gnocchi came up short on flavor.
One of the saving graces at this Center City eatery is the rock bottom prices, with entrees ranging from $9-15. All desserts are $5, and the native Italian staff makes cappuccino like they're still in the old country. Though portion sizes are modest, when the check comes, your frown gets turned upside down.
Try La Viola on a weeknight or on the late end if you're looking for a more comforting experience. Without the prime time weekend crowds, perhaps your meal won't be prepared at blistering Iron Chef-like speeds. Then you can eat slowly, take your time and eavesdrop on the folks sitting next to you for a good laugh at La Viola.
