Caribou Caf‚

1126 Walnut St.

(215) 625-9535

cariboucafe.com

It's hard to imagine that the French can pull off an American staple like the hamburger. Surprisingly enough, Caribou Caf‚ comes close to doing the impossible: making the cornerstone of obesity into a bistro delicacy.

For a brunch-only menu item that costs less than $10, Caribou Caf‚'s burger ($8.95) is a steal. Caribou's pommes frites (french fries for the unsophisticated out there) are a tad bit on the greasy side, but just the right texture. Even better, a side salad with a vinaigrette dressing comes with the entire course.

For one, Caribou Caf‚ replaces the sesame-seed bun of old with a thick baguette-style roll, complete with crispy exterior and soft inside. Rather than using ketchup, the kitchen liberally applies a creamy tomato, mayonnaise, and garlic concoction, which gives the dish considerable nuance.

But as we all know, the meat makes the hamburger, and this is where Caribou falls short. A medium burger came back overcooked, and subsequently tough on the outside.

Caribou's hamburger could really be spectacular, but can't quite finish, which only goes to show that no matter how hard they try, the French can never really match up.


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