“Really, order anything pork.” Our waiter's recommendation, as unpretentious yet as enticing as the restaurant’s food itself, perfectly sums up South Philly’s Cochon. The cash–only BYO (whose name is French for ‘pig’) is located, appropriately, in a retrofitted butchery in the heart of Queen Village.
The menu, self–described as rustic French fare, is more uncomplicated and substantial than stereotypical French cuisine. And for a menu, which shifts seasonally, so loaded with comfort–food staples like bacon, hearty meat and things that are fried, the food is surprisingly light and fresh.
We began with fried oysters served over frisee, tomatoes, and onions with a bacon aioli. The fried oysters were delicious — they melted in our mouths — and were perfectly complimented by the greens and sauce.
Four our first entree, we ordered Berkshire pork ribs ($22), served with fried onions, a red cabbage salad, whole–grain mustard sauce and two varieties of house-made sausage — one flavored with bacon and the other with roasted red pepper. The meats were impeccably prepared, juicy and savory yet still meaty. The multitude of ingredients didn’t overwhelm, but were instead simply and congruously presented. The stars of the dish, however, were the not–your–average beer–battered onion rings. Their explosive flavor and refreshing crunch was a delight.
The second entree we selected, almond-crusted rabbit leg ($24) served with snail paella, peas and smoked paprika broth, was less successful — the rabbit was lackluster, and the paella was too dry to be worthy of the flavorful snails it accompanied.
When Philadelphia Magazine voted Cochon the “Best New BYOB” in 2008, it credited the restaurant with “the polish to compete with the city’s liquor-license holders.” And while Cochon certainly does have polish — and a pricey menu to match — the restaurant doesn’t lack a certain neighborhood feel. On a Thursday night, the patrons ranged from middle–aged couples to families with young children to college kids (us) unabashedly drinking a double bottle of Fat Bastard Shiraz. And if the dinner options are out of your price range (appetizers average around $10, entrees max out at $26), try the Sunday brunch — dishes are lighter (though there’s still lots of pork!) and average around $11. Plus, there’s Bloody Mary mix available for $4 (BYO vodka, of course).
Cochon’s quaint decor, friendly staff and hearty food provide a charming atmosphere, great for spending time with family and friends without the pomp of Center City ‘Starr–ces’ staples.
Cochon BYOB
801 E Passyunk Avenue
(215) 293–7675
Don’t Miss: Anything pork, especially when it comes with something flavored with bacon; beer–battered fried onions
Skip This: Rabbit $$$$
