Most people who venture several blocks off of South Street are usually lost on their way to a kinky costume shop, anarchist bookstore, or Jim’s cheesesteaks. Those who really know where they’re going, though, will find James, a modern yet homey eatery from former Vetri chef Jim Burke. Tucked in between drab brick buildings and corner stores, James is an oasis of urban cool that gives its diners a comfortable environment to devour thoughtful dishes that will stimulate both the palate and the mind.
Chef Jim Burke designs the menu to be enjoyed in three courses, plus dessert. Ingredients for James’ appetizers are rare treats from across the globe, such as Kindai tuna—the only sustainable bluefin tuna in the world—served as a crudo with shaved fennel, nicoise olive and yuzu (m.p.). Another appetizer highlights the pungent and spicy flavor of shaved matsutake, a rare Japanese mushroom, which is served with a smokey chicken consommé and carrot gnudi ($18). The carrot gnudi (essentially a mound of thick carrot puree) rounds out the strong flavors in the rest of the dish, and the consommé served tableside is a welcomed dramatic touch.
Some of James’ most conceptually interesting dishes arrived in the second pasta course, one of which was the venus jewel case ($17). Not to be confused with the venus fly trap, a carnivorous plant that looks like part of the Jumanji set, this dish is comprised of spinach fettuccine tossed with local bacon lardons, cauliflower, and a surprising hint of bottarga di muggine (fish roe), which is then wrapped and baked in another layer of panko–topped pasta. While one can appreciate the interactive quality of the dish (since diners have to peel back the layers of the outer pasta “jewel case”, the outer layer of pasta was quite bland and dry and added little to the dish besides a bit of crunch. The real all-star of the meal was the hand cut pappardelle with duck ragu, shaved chocolate, and orange ($16). The chocolate flavor was so subtle that it would be difficult to identify if one wasn’t already aware of the ingredients. The pasta itself was bland, but the slow-braised, tender duck was by far the best part of the entire meal.
Dessert at James continued the restaurant’s trend of classic dishes with a twist. We ordered a rosemary and pine nut tart with orange cream and fresh fig slices ($9), as well as a spiced cake with pumpkin-beer ice cream and gingered wet nuts ($9).
Both dishes were adequate, but like many of James’ other courses, the flavors were muddled, which made me question for the entire night whether I was unknowingly harboring a head cold that crippled my tasting abilities. James makes an effort to serve dishes with inventive concepts and flavors that are still approachable, and executes that goal. However, ordering the right plates at James is important, since the small portion sizes do not warrant their high price tags and the ingredients in some dishes (like the matsutake) might be too obscure for the amateur palate. James is a great spot for intimate special occasions that are worth the splurge, and its earthy downtown vibe is a prime example of fine dining in Philadelphia.
James
824 S. 8th St.
(215) 629-4980
Don’t Miss: Pappardelle with duck ragu and shaved chocolate
Skip This: Matsutake with smoky consommé and carrot gnudi
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