In a city that’s practically synonymous with craft beer, Triumph Brewing Company raises the bar with inventive and hearty fare in an atmosphere worthy of classy beer aficionados. Triumph boasts three locations: Philadelphia, Princeton and New Hope, and needs no help bolstering a reputation. Those visiting only to sample brews on a Friday evening will find little elbow room at the bar, where top–shelf liquor is artfully displayed in old–world–style wooden cubbies.
For the more reserved diner, intimate booths furnished in white leather offer a quiet repose (or as quiet as the restaurant will get during a weekend live music performance). Lit by lanterns hung from rustic iron fixtures, the ambience evokes European charm, accented by the cultural diversity of the menu. Featuring hosts of Belgian staples like moules grites and Mediterranean fare like chicken souvlaki and hummus, Triumph mixes and matches to form what feels like a cohesive menu.
Appetizers range from light crudités to elaborate platters. The grilled brie, paired with a stone fruit salad and a raisin–walnut puree ($9), perfects a classic hors d’oeuvre with creative accompaniments. The stone fruit salad (an unidentifiable but thoroughly enjoyable chopped drupe drenched in a light syrup) complements the just–melted cheese, providing subtle sweetness — a better topping than a too–cloying red pepper jelly. The crisped rye (or fancy Bagel Chips) served alongside acted as an unobtrusive canvas for the cheese. Perhaps the most novel creation on the menu, the celery–root potato pancakes, provide a robust counterpart to Triumph’s ample selection of malted beverages.
For fall, Triumph is offering two autumnal–themed brews: Pumpkin Ale, a full–bodied libation with notes of spice and fennel, and Ocktoberfest, a crisp, malty beer with greater pairing options. These two seasonal selections round out a list of over half a dozen brews, alongside year–round favorites like the Kinder Pils (a hoppy, low–alcohol beverage) and the strong, fresh Bengal Gold IPA.
Unsurprisingly, many of the menu’s appetizers and sandwiches are designed for eating with beer; dishes like crispy calamari ($9), fried chicken wings ($8) and the bacon cheeseburger ($15) will satisfy a craving for simple, greased–up pub food. Triumph offers a host of more sophisticated options too, like a pan–seared halibut served with asparagus and leeks ($22), salmon with beets and Thumbelina carrots ($19), and mushroom ravioli ($14). For the ravioli, the pasta encasing was al dente and the filling combined just the right proportions of mushroom and ricotta for a palatable flavor and texture. The sauce, creamy and decadent, is so mouth watering that you’ll want to lap up the remains of it even after the ravioli is gone. The hanger steak ($21) is pre–sliced and served on something like a rectangular trough. Too often chefs miss the true state of “rare,” but this steak possessed a beautiful color, signifying care and delicacy. The accompanying frites were the ideal texture and crispness, and the flavor of the truffle oil and parmesan that dressed them was not overwhelming or off–putting, though they could have used a dash of salt.
The large portion sizes will certainly leave you satiated; my companion and I could each only finish half of our main courses, as the appetizers were large enough to substitute for a meal. Full, but not wanting to skip out on dessert, we ordered the meyer lemon tart ($6). The crust was a bit too thick and necessitated vulgar stabbing with spoons to break it, but the creamy, tart filling (sprinkled with fresh blueberries) made it worthwhile.
The service was prompt, thorough, jocular and generally pleasant, but communications between staff members could use some work. The friendly waitstaff is more than willing to offer suggestions from the beer list to coordinate with your meal. Triumph serves good food and good beer, and gets more–than–steady business; anyone looking for a great weekend dining experience will find it here.
Triumph Brewing Co.
117 Chestnut St.
(215) 625–0855
Don’t Miss: Mushroom Ravioli
Skip This: French Fries
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