Taqueria Feliz 4410 Main St. Manayunk, PA 19127 (267)331–5874 @TaqueriaFeliz $$ Don’t Miss: The Nachos (with chicken tinga)

Skip: Pork Al Pastor [media-credit name="Justin Sheen" align="alignright" width="199"][/media-credit]

The blue and yellow crossbones sign against the dark background of the Manyunk neighborhood is just one of the ways Taqueria Feliz likes to stand out. The roughly translated “Happy Taco Shop” is packed with people, though the surrounding shops have been closed for hours. The interior was dimly lit, loud and crowded, but the service made the atmosphere friendlier and a bit more inviting. “The nachos ($9.95) are to die for,” our waiter told us. I know that this phrase is overused, but I trusted him. Maybe it was his enthusiasm, maybe it was my history of love for nachos. But, after my first spicy bite, with cheese and radish, his phrase became suddenly believable. Be sure to add the chicken tinga ($2) or beef brisket ($3) to take them to the next level. With a name like “Happy Taco Shop,” we thought our Chicken Tinga ($9.95) and Pork Al Pastor ($10.95) would surpass our amazing appetizer. Unfortunately, they didn’t quite do the trick, and our tacos failed to overpower our nacho fever. It wasn’t for lack of trying, however, as each of our orders (three tacos each) tried to get us to think outside of the Taco Bell box. Taqueria Feliz threw out the hard shells to which we’d grown accustomed and brought back the traditional soft, floury wrap, packed with ingredients like pickled cabbage and salsa roja. Still, where the ingredients should have melded together into a powerful statement, they stuck out and struck out. For dessert we had the chocolate cake ($5.95). Although it was deliciously moist, the cake seemed be more of an afterthought and didn’t really mesh with the “new wave taco” vibe Taqueria Feliz seemed to be trying to broadcast. While scanning the menu again on the ride back to campus, however, my dining companion and I found a glimmer of hope. In a section named “Comida Loca”—or, “Funky Stuff”—we found entrees that involved beef tongue ($6.95), lamb heart ($6.95) and grasshoppers ($6.95). While we didn’t try them, they’re definitely interesting enough to warrant a return trip.