ROUTE 6 600 N Broad St. (215) 391–4600

Don't Miss: Lobster roll Skip: The chicken–fried lobster tail

$$$

To enter Route 6 is to be transported to the Hamptons, Nantucket or the like. The spacious venue exudes beach–club chic and no detail has been overlooked — on each table, a candle rests on sand within a glass jar and small metal pails are filled with lobster utensils. The bar area imitates an elegant poolside lounge. The result is an atmosphere that is as classy as it is homey.

Even on a Wednesday night, the restaurant is full and buzzing. Scott, our charming waiter, brings over crunchy homemade oyster crackers in lieu of bread. He is eager with suggestions without being overbearing, and we let him guide our choices.

Service is prompt. Not even two minutes after we order, the clam chowder ($10) arrives. With a milk base rather than cream, this soup is pleasantly lighter than usual, making the flavor rich but not heavy. The best part is the generous addition of full clams.

The raw bar offers plentiful options and we sample oysters: a Kumamoto ($3.50/ea.) and a Naked Cowboy ($2.25/ea.). The oysters, presented on ice, are delicious and fresh — the Kumamoto is incredibly smooth while the Naked Cowboy has a strong briny flavor.

Scott insists that we try the chicken fried lobster tails ($22), the most unusual appetizer on the menu. The three tails arrive with the shell attached at the end, for aesthetic appeal. The fried exterior contrasting with the buttery lobster is an interesting combination, but this is not the most memorable dish of the meal.

Next comes the lobster roll ($25), so good it steals the show in an already delicious meal. The meaty chunks of lobster, on a buttered and lightly–toasted roll, are tossed in a mayo dressing so light that the taste and texture of pure lobster is far from lost.

Our main course is diver scallops ($24), Scott’s favorite dish on the menu. The lightly–seared scallops, surrounded by calamari and small croutons, are soft and buttery. There is an interesting kick to the scallops — “Chile flakes,” Scott informs us.

Scott, a self–proclaimed vegetable–hater, raves over the cider–roasted Brussels sprouts ($6), so we try it as a side. They are a little hard for my liking, but have good flavor and are complemented by chunks of apple, an unusual but successful choice.

We're stuffed, but of course make room for two desserts ($8/ea.): the chocolate bread pudding with banana ice cream that my friend calls “straight–up outrageous” and the warm apple pie.

When we walk out the door, it comes as a slight shock that we’re in Philly. The meal felt almost like a vacation.