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Ralic’s on South, a new seafood restaurant that had its soft opening in December, looks less fancy than it is. The entrees are not exorbitantly expensive, but the semi–tacky murals on the walls and casual decor make the restaurant feel like a kid–friendly sports bar (Ralic’s uses this description on its website). You might expect a costumed wait staff, but our dining experience, complete with unexpectedly fresh food, felt more five–star than the ambience let on.

It’s easy to go wrong with shrimp cocktail––but Ralic’s got it right with extra–large shrimp that come on a bed of ice to maintain freshness. The conveniently peeled prawns ($8.50) were a perfect way to begin the meal and came with a tangy cocktail sauce with just the right amount of horseradish.

The three hearty crab cake sliders, served on a bready bun with a wonderful red pepper coulis. were delightful as appetizers. While they may have relied a bit too much on Old Bay seasoning, the delicious sliders transported us to the Chesapeake and provided a generous portion for the price ($11.50).

Don’t miss the lobster caprese ($11.50), an Italian classic with a twist that works. You don’t just get the usual mozzarella, balsamic, basil and tomato, but a significant amount of lobster meat in a sherry bisque sauce that complements the acidity of the vinegar, bringing out the lobster and rich cheese flavors.

Our entrees were served beautifully, contributing further to the unexpected elegance of a place with an (awesome) enormous octopus sculpture by the second floor balcony. The blackened mahi ($22.50) was prepared exactly as we’d want it. Though it sat upon an oversized portion of risotto that tasted like boxed cheesy rice, the fish was cooked and spiced perfectly.

The swordfish entree ($24.50) was less of a masterpiece. The usually decadent fish tasted oddly fishy, with a not–so–subtle hint of seawater. The salty dish could have benefitted from a flavorful marinade, but the sautéed spinach side was the plate’s savior.

Finally, we indulged in Ralic’s cheesecake ($7.50), at the recommendation of our knowledgeable waiter, Brian. We couldn’t finish the slice, but enjoyed the richness of the cake, which was s’mores–y, loaded with marshmallows and chocolate.

Ralic’s menu is not yet finalized, but this South Street gem is a new and welcome Philadelphia seafood haven. Don’t judge the class of this fine restaurant by its flat–screen TVs. Ralic’s is a bit of a splurge for a Penn student and has a full bar. The impressively sized eatery was less than packed when we dined, so fish lovers should be sure to check out the fresh seafood being served on South.