[media-credit name="Jason Varney" align="alignright" width="216"][/media-credit]

I’ll admit that I preemptively judged The Farm and The Fisherman. Although I try to be a conscientious eater whenever possible, I assumed that the much touted “farm to table” restaurant striving “to make the best social and ethical decisions” would serve fantastically fresh food in a space where everything else ranged from rustic chic to dirty hippy. In my defense, even the website advertises the restaurant as “quaint." In size? Oh, definitely. Claustrophobics should steer clear, especially during peak hours, as should anyone else who might be tempted to eat off another table if it’s within arm’s reach. But tucked in to this intimate and unassuming space is an experience to rival existing five star restaurants –– from the white tablecloths to the alcohol–free but easily triple–digit bill. If you forget to or can’t BYOB, don’t despair; the nonalcoholic options to toast with are one of the highlights. At my visit, the rotating iced tea menu had landed on a chocolate rendition that was subtle and slightly addicting. The idea that chocolate should be watery was the first of many instances in which the Farm and the Fisherman required me to suspend what I thought I knew about food. The menu is limited, and there’s something in practically every dish that I’ve either never heard of or tend to avoid. But over the span of three savory courses, I learned that the husband and wife team, Chefs Joshua and Colleen Lawler, could clearly teach me a thing or two.

Jason Varney