Rickie Golden

If you're craving charbroiled veal chops, risotto with morels and taleggio, a steaming pot of mussels cooked in white wine with garlic and celery or even old-fashioned, homemade tubes of manicotti overstuffed with fresh ricotta cheese and smothered with sweet, heirloom tomato sauce, then do not go to Tacconelli's. But if you are craving the best, darkest, most garlicky pizza in the Mid-Atlantic region, do drive -- or find a stranger who has a car so that he can drive you -- to the Port Richmond section of Philadelphia.
November 11, 2004 at 12:00 am