When you walk into Old-City-favorite Cuba Libre, you are immediately struck by the atmosphere. The tropical foliage and wide-frond fans evoke Hemingway and fresh-rolled cigars, making you feel like the hostess should be stamping your passport instead of seating you at a table.

The drink menu continues the illusion. Unsurprisingly, Cuba Libra specializes in rum — it boasts over 75 varieties, including its own spiced version. The Havana Iced Tea proved to be a tropical and tangy version of its Long Island counterpart, and the Tropicana offered a smooth blend of mango, coconut and banana rums in a sleek martini glass adorned with a pineapple slice.

Even the bread basket kicks off the meal with a tropical twist. The bread is served in small, ruffled wafers with mango butter, which is as strange and delicious as it sounds; creamy and sweet, it whets the appetite for what is to come.

The knowledgeable wait staff is more than happy to make delicious and traditional recommendations. We took our waiter’s advice and ordered the Chicharrones de la Casa ($12.50), a saucy appetizer of marinated chicken, skirt steak, pork masitas and chorizo sausage, all tossed in a traditional Cuban mojo sauce, a spicy blend of garlic, onions, citrus juices and olive oil. The meat was pleasingly crispy and had a citrus kick, and the side of toston and yuca bites were the perfect platform for the flavorful sauce.

For the main course, the adventurous should try the Plato Cuba Libre ($29.50), an ensemble plate of three dishes chosen by the chef every night and served with “Moros y Cristianos” (black beans and rice — get it?), more tostones, a watercress salad and fried sweet plantains. This night, the plato included braised short rib with a mild Haitian salsa that seemed to melt at the touch of a knife, a grilled churrasco skirt steak with a parsley, lemon and onion marinade and three skewers of chorizo and baby octopus. The octopus is especially noteworthy — its crispy skin and spicy aftertaste are sure to dispel any squeamish thoughts. The Churrasco a la Cubana’s ($25.50) low fat content allows the flavor of the meat to stand, and succeed, on its own. The short rib also comes on its own as the Vaca Frita ($21.50).

The mouthwateringly milky Tres Leches de Banana cake ($8) proved itself an essential treat with coffee — we enjoyed the chocolate Cafe con Xocolati ($4) and the Cafe Cuba Libre with a shot of spiced rum ($7). The chocolate added to the former was mild yet sweet enough to obviate the need for sugar, and the rum was a perfect complement to the latter. Though pricey, the food at Cuba Libre is packed with flavor. But if it’s just too much, you can enjoy the island ambiance on Friday and Saturday nights, when the floor opens to salsa dancing.

Cuba Libre

10 S. 2nd St.

(215) 627-0666

Don’t Miss: Some iteration of the short rib Skip: Expensive cocktails; yummy but not worth the price tag.