If you're sick of Subway sandwiches and Kung Pao Chicken, look toward 40th Street for salvation. The place we fondly remember as Bitar's has been revamped and renamed Simsum. Gone is the fast-food pita sandwich reputation; under the guidance of Bitar's owner, Amin Bitar, and the new exec chef, Tom Dooney, Simsum has become an eclectic fusion of Eastern Mediterranean and French cuisines. Amid dim lights, exotic music and a mysterious d‚cor reminiscent of Casablanca, I settled in and prepared myself for the ensuing eight-course meal.
From mousy-eaters to gluttons, carnivores to vegetarians, Simsum has something for everyone. Whether you just want to feast on a combination of tapas-like "mezzas," or you want to go for the entrees, you'll leave sated but without an empty wallet. I started off with one of the chef's specialties, a soup called Shur-bet Scallops. The scallops were slightly over-chewy, but the soup was a wonderful blend of fragrant spices and coconut milk. Next came the Salata Balah, a sweetish frisee salad with homemade lamb sausages, made using the recipe of one of the Tunisian staff's mothers. The sausages were slightly dry but reminded me of the great flavors of Chorizo. Everything on the menu is homemade, from the three different types of humus to the falafels. If you want more of a tasting menu, try the mezzas, especially the honey-grilled Simsum Wings (keep in mind that your tongue will get a good workout removing residual honey and sesame bits from your teeth) and the Shrimp Sam-bou-sik, dumplings made with wild mushrooms and shrimp in a refreshingly flavorful broth. If you don't mind the strong taste of lamb, the Lamb Mikli was also lovely, particularly when eaten with the crunchy savory filo pastry rose. The highlight of the meal, however, was the Snapper Bil Warak. Perfectly fresh and perfectly steamed in parchment with ginger butter, it'll leave you feeling both salubrious and satisfied. I didn't have room, but you can top your meal off with traditional baklava and mint tea. For those still pining for that Bitar's sandwich, it remains on the lunch menu. In a few weeks you can also look forward to a weekend brunch and dessert crepes. La Petit Creperie, prepare for a run for your money.
