Maggiano's 1201 Filbert St. 215-567-2020 Open daily * * * * (four stars)

Chain Restaurants notoriously receive a bad rap as the banal staples of suburban dining: TGI Fridays, The Olive Garden etc. etc.

Enter the new breed of classy chain restaurant -- nice atmosphere, less regimental and each location has a similar menu but a unique charm all its own.

Add to these, the advantages of being a chain, the lower prices and the extra locations and the word loses some of its negativity.

Good food, good enough wine and a helpful staff characterize Maggianos, a Chicago based chain which recently opened their doors at 12th and Filbert.

Maggianos does Italian right with an extensive classically Italian menu. Fifteen different appetizer selections are available, varying from baked stuffed clams (1/2 order $7.95 full order $11.95) to crispy onion strings ($3.95). From here on out it is a gluttonous delight. The low prices only encourage a larger order. Numerous entrees, pastas and desserts satisfy even the pickiest diner's every Italian craving.

The setting does its best to place diners in one of the family-owned South Philly favorites, with old Sinatra playing from somewhere within the dark paneled walls.

Adding to this comfortable experience is the family style dinner option. Available for parties of four or more, the family style menu allows diners to select two appetizers, two salads, two pastas two entrees, two vegetables and two desserts (21.95 per person). The dishes come in portions so large take out containers are practically provided when the food is served.