For those of you who are uncomfortable in large crowds of fashionably queer youth, Sisters' brunch offers a gentle taste of lesbian daytime dining. Music circa Janet Jackson's "Rhythm Nation" will make you wonder why you're having coffee and not a vodka tonic with your bacon. But whatever your choice, the dim lighting and small crowd allow you to dine in the company of genuine lesbians without tarnishing your heterosexuality. And that's priceless.

For $9.99, wet your lips with an all-you-can eat buffet that boasts perogies in cream, fruit balls, spinach quiche and applesauce pancakes. Serve yourself some of the freshly-tossed Caesar salad, or have the cute chef guarding the spread scramble your eggs into a sexy, lesbian omelet. If you prefer your eggs with a side of cigarette smoke, you'll be happy to know that Sisters' brunch doesn't leave out the staples of a good lezzie night life (cigarettes, liquor and pop art portraits of K.D. Lang) at the expense of traditional breakfast nutrition. Choose from an array of bagels, toast or even Eggo waffles. And for the lactose-intolerant lesbian, Sisters serves its coffee with soy milk.

The mid-afternoon crowd consists mainly of 40-year-old chicks rocking mullets and knit sweaters, with the exception of a hot hostess (I saw you looking at my ass -- call me), and a table of post-retirement business men, whose bald spots and canes stand out like an erect penis in gym class. The confused seascape hanging overhead the dining area -- along with clusters of blue and yellow balloons -- gives the impression that lesbian pirates recently celebrated a graduation of some sort here. But no, these brunching lesbians are just enjoying some sausage.

If you come to Sisters' brunch hoping to get an early start on the search for female companionship, you're likely to be disappointed. Unlike Bump across the street, Sunday afternoons at Sisters are not Gayborhood social events. These are real woman-identified people, remember, and women like buffets. But if you have the stamina, stick around for the weekly screening of Showtime's The L Word, and you're likely to find more intriguing possibilities.

While certainly no match for its nightlife, Sisters' brunch straddles the line between diner food and gay club culture. The brunch scene suffers from an atmospheric identity crisis -- as is likely to happen when a gay club opens its doors for an afternoon brunch -- but even at noon, the club stays true to its lesbian roots, making Sisters' brunch more than your average buffet.