Getting there: Take the Market–Frankford Line Eastbound and get off at Girard Ave. (about 25 mins)
When I first got off the train in Fishtown I was confused—where was the rancid seafood smell that characterizes the streets of neighborhoods once known for fishing? I had come to find out about the food of this up–and–coming neighborhood, and with no clear idea where to start, I decided to turn to a local for some guidance.
My trip began on a corner at an anonymous looking pizza parlor, Pizzeria Beddia (115 E. Girard Ave). I approached a tall, bouncy haired woman behind the counter and asked her point–blank, "What’s up with Fishtown, why haven't I heard of this place before?" She explained that five years ago the area was totally different. Back then, she didn’t feel comfortable visiting her brother (Joe Beddia, the owner of the pizza joint) because of the neighborhood’s not–so–glamorous rep. She wouldn’t have walked alone at night for a hot second.
Since then, Fishtown has experienced a face–lift from developers and restaurateurs (Steven Starr couldn’t stay away) who have transformed the neighborhood into a food and nightlife hotspot. Now, there’s an energy pumping along Frankford and Girard Avenues—Fishtown’s main drags. Leaving Beddia, I turned left, walked a few blocks past some deserted dollar stores and a 7–11 and found what I was looking for. Fishtown is no longer the land of shrimp and grouper—it’s gone totally gastropub. -Solomon Bass
Start your day: Milk Crate Cafe
400 E. Girard Ave.
Hi-Fi and Wi-Fi are best friends at this record–store meets coffee shop. Brightly colored record covers line the walls and the menu of dishes named for music–puns is artfully scrawled on a blackboard. If you’re not sold by the sheer fact that they serve something titled “A Tribe Called Quesadilla," the “Chocolate Elvis” will win you over: a toasted croissant with banana, nutella, peanut butter and—surprise, surprise—bacon! The hickory smokiness of the bacon compliments the heavy sweetness of the peanut butter and Nutella, while the toasted croissant added a crispy texture to counter the softness of the bananas. Pair with a cup of freshly brewed La Colombe coffee for a breakfast that we’re sure would make The King rise from his grave.
413 E. Girard Ave.
Eclectic wall art seems to be a fad in Fishtown. Right down the block from Milk Crate Cafe, customer–created food doodles cover the tight quarters Sketch Burger calls home (let your inner Picasso shine—the “wallpaper” changes on a weekly basis). The entrancing smell of seared Kobe beef engulfs this burger dive, where uncommon toppings like wasabi and tahini make an appearance. Feeling luxurious? Opt for the truffle butter burger ($8.25), a Grade–A patty cooked to your heart's desire, topped with grilled mushrooms and truffle butter. The salty, savory patty meshes well with the sumptuous earthiness of the mushrooms and truffle butter, but the real star at Sketch Burger is a plate of hand–cut Belgian fries. Pick any two of their creative homemade sauces, like harissa aioli or the mint–cilantro “Green Goddess," and dunk away.
Chill out: Fette Sau to Frankford Hall
Steven Starr has taken over the corner of Frankford and Girard. With two establishments that cater to the need for more than decent barbecue north of the Mason–Dixon line and a beer garden with more than decent food, the block is worthy of a stop. Beat the 4 p.m. slump with a bacon brownie at the laid back Fette Sau, opened in partnership with Brooklyn chef Joe Carroll (1208 Frankford Ave). Sit at a picnic table and get something sweet. For $3, the bacon brownie was as good as it gets. The dense, fudgy batter countered just the right amount of sweet with bitter cocoa. The smokiness of the chocolate was relayed by the smoked bacon, whose savory notes added much needed depth to the heavy chocolate palette. For those who prefer a meaty pick–me–up, Fette Sau specializes in barbecued meats. Try dry rubbed pulled pork ($16/lb) or brisket ($18/lb) with a whiskey from the list of over 100 options, including ever–changing specials. For those under 21, or those with a thesis to finish, Fette Sau offers sodas you won’t find most places, including Cheerwine ($3) and Mexican Coke ($3 with real sugar).
Frankford Hall 1210 Frankford Ave.
Once the clock strikes five, head down the block to 1210 Frankford Ave. to find Frankford Hall, a booze– and food–fueled playground for grown–ups. Start inside, where a spacious eating/drinking space houses long, communal tables complete with boxes of Jenga. Sidle up to the bar, which has a top–notch beer selection, and pick up an Oktoberfest–sized beer stein full of Weihenstephan Original Lager ($14). Once your beer blanket starts to kick in, grab a bag of s‘mores–making supplies ($1), head out to a fire pit and roast that marshmallow like it’s the summer of 2004. If you’re craving more than a sweet and gooey bite, opt for an authentic warm Bavarian pretzel with cheese dip ($4) to share while you duke it out over a game of ping–pong.
Dine and drink: Johnny Brenda’s
1201 Frankford Ave.
A restaurant downstairs and an indie–rock concert venue upstairs, Johnny Brenda’s is as binarily cool as gastropub gets. (read: Brooklyn hipsterville and an old school western saloon make a baby.) Young, crisply dressed crowds gather around the bar and pool table or sit at hardwood tables sipping flights of local beers. A mix of harmonica and drumbeats plays soundtrack to cozy conversation. Order a plate of super–thin–cut fries ($4) for the table and stay awhile. We like the dipping sauce because it isn’t fancy, kind of like their beer selection. You’ll be foolhardy not to follow up with Fish Town Stew on your second round ($18)—mussels, leeks and fennel to share. Johnny Brenda’s is a Philly staple. People have been rocking out there since way before Fishtown was cool.
