Serving both Japanese and Korean fare, Han Wool provides a serviceable alternative to other local sushi hangouts. It's slightly cheaper than Nara and lacks the ber-trendy kitsch of Pod. Otherwise -- in terms of sushi -- Han Wool tucks the rice in right where it belongs.

At 6 p.m. on a Friday, the restaurant was filled to about 10 percent capacity. Han Wool tries to compensate for its dull, Wawa-esque (located next door) store front with classical Japanese accoutrements, such as hanging origami and dolls, which help little in terms of d‚cor.

Han Wool 3608 Chestnut Street (215) 382-6221

The lengthy menu may overwhelm first-time customers. Would you prefer six or 10 pieces of sushi, or perhaps sashimi? Tempura or hot teriyaki meat, anyone? Heck, would you enjoy a fine bottle of Saan Soju -- a 44 proof Korean white liquor resembling chilled sake? The placemat boasts the healing wonders of the green leaves inside Soju and claims to "prevent alcohol poisoning." It was unexpectedly refreshing.

Miso soup established the tone for this meal -- nothing overly fancy or wondrous, but palatable nonetheless. The Uwe (ooh-way) -- 10 pieces of sushi, including pairs of tuna, salmon and eel among others -- was served on a mini-table. The wood slab was covered by half a dozen California rolls, and the obligatory wasabi. A gentle smattering of soy sauce, as always, enhanced the delicacy.

The service was slow and poor -- especially considering the dearth of customers -- and the food lacked zest. Yet, Han Wool has enough going for it to merit a try. At the very least, sample some Soju, because it's the best thing this place has going for it.