Percy Street Barbecue, the new BBQ joint from Zahav owners Michael Solomonov and Steven Cook, is a little slice of Lone Star in Philadelphia. After months of touring and studying authentic BBQ in Texas, Solomonov and Cook brought the smoked style thousands of miles away from home. At Percy Street, diners can enjoy the comfort of smoked meat and home-style sides — all for somewhat reasonable prices.
The breadth of choices is unimpressive but understandable. Five meat choices and nine sides don the menu. With “All in” family style specials, restaurant goers can easily experience every option. The Lockhart Special — all meats, all sides and a choice of desert — is to be shared liberally by four guests ($24 per person).
The theme of the meat is smoke — smoked brisket, smoked ribs, smoked sausage, smoked chicken and smoked pork belly ($9-$21). All the meats were served sans sauce, just smoked. The pork belly was undeniably tender and the spare ribs were generously meaty, both flavorful and rich. But with an option of moist or lean brisket, diners should be advised to take the lean route — the former is too fatty. But the standout meat was, surprisingly, the chicken. Incredibly juicy and tender, the chicken complimented the other dense meats offered. But none of the meats were complete without Percy Street’s homemade barbeque sauce — sweet and tangy, a must-have addition to any of the smoky but un-sauced meats.
The highlights of the meal were the rich sides. The macaroni and cheese ($6) was deliciously crunchy and creamy and a delightful but heavy green bean casserole ($4-$7) was dotted with crispy fried onions. But don’t go to Percy Street to dine on vegetables. The collard greens ($4-$7), the only vegetable offered, was limp and tasteless. Instead embrace the heavy meal and veer towards the root beer chili ($4-$7). Thick cubes of beef were complimented by Yard’s root beer, brewed specially for Percy Street (also a must-drink for those under 21).
All advised, leave room for desert. Pecan pie ($6), banana pudding ($6), root bear float ($6) and apple crisp ($6) are all typical endings to a Texan meal but the German chocolate cake ($6) was a real treat, if your stomach can pack in rich chocolate and a peanut coconut topping.
Served on metal lunch trays and with rolls of paper towels, barbeque encourages diners to get down and dirty with their food and Percy Street’s atmosphere agrees. A jukebox lined the wall and a saloon-like bar boasted an impressive array of beer and whiskey. Lucky for the bar regulars, beer can be served by the pint, half-gallon and even the gallon. But the elegance of two of Philly’s finest restaurateurs is evident in the western style clean-cut benches and rustic tables.
No matter your BBQ expertise, Percy Street is a gateway to Texas through a South Street vision. Embrace the buffalo horns and country music and dive elbow-deep in stomach-stuffing BBQ specialties.
Percy Street Barbecue
900 South Street
(215) 625-8510
Don’t Miss: The pork belly and chicken, smoked to perfection
Skip: Collard Greens – just steer clear of vegetables for this meal
