Drink of the Week
Malbec
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Malbec
Beneluxx Tasting Room
Tria
Philadelphia's barren pizza scene has long needed some manna from heaven. For a city steeped in Italian heritage - not to mention red-and-white-checkered tablecloths - the lack of quality pizza is strange. So who better to revamp this staple than chef Marc Vetri, who has set the standard for Italian cuisine with his critically acclaimed (and eponymous) restaurant at 1312 Spruce St.?
Styled after the Piedmontese Moscato d'Asti (Moscato from Asti), this spritely Australian white leaves little to the imagination. Of all the varietals, Moscato's (a.k.a Muscat) aroma is one of very few that is actually reminiscent of grapes. Lightly sparkling and gushing with juicy ripeness to the point of indecency, this Field of Dreams rendition makes an excellent aperitif or dessert wine. But with its aromatic notes of mango and elderflower, it will be hard to put away for all those courses in between. Like many Australians, this wine is eager to please and easy to appreciate - delicious but not capricious.
Every Sunday, Tria Caf‚ offers its divine triumvirate of wine, cheese and beer at 50% the normal price at its weekly Sunday School. It is this "fermentation trio" that Tria Caf‚ exalts with aplomb. Tria is unassumingly small and of little aesthetic interest, but a glance at their menu sends even a seasoned sommelier into raptures.
Teruzzi & Puthod "Terre di Tufi" 2005 - $15.99
Privada 2004, Bodega Norton, Argentina (Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon) $13.99 (down from $21.99)
The Super Bowl has certain rules that must be observed. Acolytes submit to the orgy of chili, wings and beer. But that is no reason for you, the discerning epicure, to compromise. Here are two worthy brews to make the most of Super Bowl gastronomy:
As you gobble your way through Restaurant Week, so must you guzzle your way through some appropriately refined wines. Since you will be saving on the check, divert a few extra dollars towards quality in your glass. This Aussie Riesling fits the bill; fresh apple and citrus aromas yield nicely into crisp acidity and lasting minerality on the palate. Surprisingly floral too. You'll find it pairs well with light starters and fish preparations, but is versatile enough for the queerest of Philly's BYOs.
You could be forgiven for thinking Gayle was a typical Philly BYOB. It is very small, very close to South Street and has a clientele of bohemian foodies and aspiring trendsetters. But Gayle does have a wine list, and its entire page of domestic offerings is thoughtful and eclectic. What really makes Gayle unique in Philly is the postmodernism of its dishes, which bring mixed but always intriguing results.
La Fontana opened in January to barely a whisper. With Amada deservedly capturing the rapturous praise and hoi polloi, La Fontana has quietly set about establishing itself as a neighborhood Italian restaurant. The decor is fairly elegant, and the deep crimson carpet beckons one to make oneself at home. A quick glance at the menu reaffirms this, and comprises the types of dishes that people can eat every day.
Upon entering Le Bec-Fin, and being led down a winding staircase away from the garish opulence of the main restaurant, I couldn't help but feel like a third-class passenger on the Titanic. This was shortlived, as the subterranean Bar Lyonnais is seductively plush, oozing with class and authenticity. And much like DiCaprio in the movie, I had the real first-class indulgence brought down to me.
Highlights:
Django is very in-demand right now, and one hears all sorts of horror stories about how long it takes to get a table. The first time, it took me a month. The next time, it took me about 15 minutes. In any case, once you get there, prepare to spend a while longer deliberating over the menu, which is a cornucopia of promise.
Time: While there is no set happy hour, Bar Saigon is open Friday and Saturday from 5- 10 p.m.
Mexican cuisine is clearly designed to get diners uncomfortably full, and Taqueria La Veracruzana certainly fits the bill: the resulting doggie bag will be haunting me for weeks. The restaurant offers mainstream Mexican fare (burritos, tacos, fajitas etc.), rather than specialties of the Veracruz region.
The Japanese are renowned for their technological prowess, and it is little surprise that they have applied their acumen to personal hygiene. Compared to the Nippon, we are uncouth Neanderthals, and these inventions prove it:
The format of Vetri's menu is instantly revealing. On the first page are about 10 permanent fixtures and on the second, a few more temporary ones contingent to season and to chef Mark Vetri's whims. There are no ostentatious blurbs, only fabulous offerings like "chestnut fettucine with wild boar ragu." Unfortunately, the bread, which crackled with mediocrity, gave me a short-lived fright. But commitment to the integrity of the ingredients, as I would soon discover, is the boon of this restaurant.
When I set off to Manayunk, it was with the perfunctory objective of getting to Jake's, sitting down to a bounteous brunch, and then getting the hell out. But the neighborhood's charms, and my party's level of fullness, called for a leisurely walk. The aptly named Main Street is packed with interesting cafes, restaurants and boutiques, and the corresponding smells of coffee, good food and incense.
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